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February 26, 2006

01 Domaine Weinbach, Gewurztraminer Clos des Capucins Cuvee Theo

Throw reverence to the wind. At Weinbach's Clos des Capucins, I bet it just hangs there. As much as one wants to avoid judging a wine based on its history, it's so difficult with this gewurztraminer because the pedigree shines right through. The opulent honey, wildflower, and pineapple flambe aroma is like none other--an extremely unique example of the varietal's characteristically spicy lychee fruit tendencies. (I always wonder how critics got such a sound sense of the exotic Chinese pericarp.) Weinbach's power carries into the thick, barleywine-like palate that seamlessly eases into a potpourri of lavendar, rosemary, dried citrus, peach nuts, and fibrous white pear. Its lingering finish intensifies in spiciness, cuts into the fat palate, and reveals a dry wisp of smoke--like the firm thin casing on a side of cured ham. Ham. Yes, we need ham.


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