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February 18, 2006

95 Jean Milan, Champagne Oger Grand Cru "Terres de Noel" Blanc de Blancs Brut

A model of elegance, with the purity of a pre-Bush-administration Alaskan glacier. Jean Milan's special old-vines cuvee singes with complexity, bowing long notes of Meyer lemon, icy mountain water, flinty sea salt, and vanilla-soaked walnuts. What two years ago was a wine so Chablisienne in structure--so strained with acidity--that it was difficult to drink, has now climaxed into something other-worldly that proves there is much more to chardonnay than what Burgundy can offer. I put it in a class with 90 Salon. Milan's champagne is less baroque, though. It typifies greatness from a vintage that could have been missed with all the 90s, 88s, and R.D.s on the market, but one that has earned its card. A wine can do no better than to bring such admiration and respect to its peers.


Anonymous drew hagen said...

Dude, we were just talking about this! It's amazing what you kill off. Wow.


2:40 PM  
Anonymous Metal said...

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2:04 AM  
Blogger Nilay Gandhi said...

Was this blog just validated by Terminator?

3:15 PM  

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