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May 16, 2007

03 Fattoria di Felsina, Fontalloro

Felsina is putting out some tremendous sangiovese. Everyone likes it--from Parker to Gambero Rosso, who has given his rare Tre Bicchieri (Three Glasses) award to Felsina (over 20) times. Like the '00 Fontalloro (which left me breathless), the 03 is so Tuscan it's anti-Tuscan. Today, at least, when some Tuscans have all but physically moved to Napa and Bordeaux. It's white-beans-mashed-with-olive-oil-and-parsley Tuscan, Etruscan rather than Tuscan--ancient, but at home where it is. Because there's no denying the modern power of the fruit in this 2003 bottling. It's bold and spicy, with loads of blackberry and black cherry flavor, anise and peppercorn. Simply, the antidote for old, gamey lamb-cum-mutton. It shows off the strength of its terroir, more like the brunello moniker than typical sangiovese or morellino (though it does have that damp essence common to the Maremma coast). Thank you, Danielle.


Blogger Marcus said...

Interesting choice for Wine Blogging Wednesday!

Hey, I think we fell off each other's radar for a while there... sorry I didn't give you a reminder to tout those awesome Languedoc wines -- the theme of the WBW I'm currently hosting. After that St-Martin Bronzinelle review, I thought your entry would definitely do the WBW event some good!

The round-up is tomorrow... it still might not be to late to put in a quick word for your favourite Languedoc-Roussillon value wine ($15-30). More details.


8:48 AM  

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