03 Fattoria di Felsina, Fontalloro

Felsina is putting out some tremendous sangiovese. Everyone likes it--from Parker to Gambero Rosso, who has given his rare Tre Bicchieri (Three Glasses) award to Felsina (over 20) times. Like the '00 Fontalloro (which left me breathless), the 03 is so Tuscan it's anti-Tuscan. Today, at least, when some Tuscans have all but physically moved to Napa and Bordeaux. It's white-beans-mashed-with-olive-oil-and-parsley Tuscan, Etruscan rather than Tuscan--ancient, but at home where it is. Because there's no denying the modern power of the fruit in this 2003 bottling. It's bold and spicy, with loads of blackberry and black cherry flavor, anise and peppercorn. Simply, the antidote for old, gamey lamb-cum-mutton. It shows off the strength of its terroir, more like the brunello moniker than typical sangiovese or morellino (though it does have that damp essence common to the Maremma coast). Thank you, Danielle.