04 Chateau de la Vielle Tour, Bordeaux Blanc

Sharp and smoky like a burning evergreen, Vielle Tour's blend of sauvignon blanc, semillon, and muscadelle is as dry and tart as the white country wines of its Loire neighbors to the north. I can't help but be both drawn to and dismissive of its rawness. The aroma reminds me of green mango skins and the one or two times in my life I've cut into a fresh starfruit. Cold, salted, unsweetened lemons hold the palate down like a tongue depressor.