04 Guigal, Condrieu

Really a fun wine--at once exceedingly rich aromatically and dry to the point of being transparent on the palate. It's the bain of viognier, especially the northern Rhone's Condrieu--a wine denser than other whites that last years in the bottle, yet one that dies suddenly and soon. Maybe too fast is it's beating heart, too passionate its deciduous perfume of orange Dreamsicle wilted down to white peaches. So classic is as classic does, and with the merits of terroir come its faults. Guigal's 04 Condrieu is nearly dead--now more refreshing than fresh, like spring water distilled from Bergamot tea. Save it for the syrah.