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February 26, 2006

01 Domaine Weinbach, Gewurztraminer Clos des Capucins Cuvee Theo

Throw reverence to the wind. At Weinbach's Clos des Capucins, I bet it just hangs there. As much as one wants to avoid judging a wine based on its history, it's so difficult with this gewurztraminer because the pedigree shines right through. The opulent honey, wildflower, and pineapple flambe aroma is like none other--an extremely unique example of the varietal's characteristically spicy lychee fruit tendencies. (I always wonder how critics got such a sound sense of the exotic Chinese pericarp.) Weinbach's power carries into the thick, barleywine-like palate that seamlessly eases into a potpourri of lavendar, rosemary, dried citrus, peach nuts, and fibrous white pear. Its lingering finish intensifies in spiciness, cuts into the fat palate, and reveals a dry wisp of smoke--like the firm thin casing on a side of cured ham. Ham. Yes, we need ham.


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February 18, 2006

95 Jean Milan, Champagne Oger Grand Cru "Terres de Noel" Blanc de Blancs Brut

A model of elegance, with the purity of a pre-Bush-administration Alaskan glacier. Jean Milan's special old-vines cuvee singes with complexity, bowing long notes of Meyer lemon, icy mountain water, flinty sea salt, and vanilla-soaked walnuts. What two years ago was a wine so Chablisienne in structure--so strained with acidity--that it was difficult to drink, has now climaxed into something other-worldly that proves there is much more to chardonnay than what Burgundy can offer. I put it in a class with 90 Salon. Milan's champagne is less baroque, though. It typifies greatness from a vintage that could have been missed with all the 90s, 88s, and R.D.s on the market, but one that has earned its card. A wine can do no better than to bring such admiration and respect to its peers.


Anonymous drew hagen said...

Dude, we were just talking about this! It's amazing what you kill off. Wow.


2:40 PM  
Anonymous Metal said...

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2:04 AM  
Blogger Nilay Gandhi said...

Was this blog just validated by Terminator?

3:15 PM  

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