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February 26, 2006

01 Domaine Weinbach, Gewurztraminer Clos des Capucins Cuvee Theo

Throw reverence to the wind. At Weinbach's Clos des Capucins, I bet it just hangs there. As much as one wants to avoid judging a wine based on its history, it's so difficult with this gewurztraminer because the pedigree shines right through. The opulent honey, wildflower, and pineapple flambe aroma is like none other--an extremely unique example of the varietal's characteristically spicy lychee fruit tendencies. (I always wonder how critics got such a sound sense of the exotic Chinese pericarp.) Weinbach's power carries into the thick, barleywine-like palate that seamlessly eases into a potpourri of lavendar, rosemary, dried citrus, peach nuts, and fibrous white pear. Its lingering finish intensifies in spiciness, cuts into the fat palate, and reveals a dry wisp of smoke--like the firm thin casing on a side of cured ham. Ham. Yes, we need ham.

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February 18, 2006

95 Jean Milan, Champagne Oger Grand Cru "Terres de Noel" Blanc de Blancs Brut

A model of elegance, with the purity of a pre-Bush-administration Alaskan glacier. Jean Milan's special old-vines cuvee singes with complexity, bowing long notes of Meyer lemon, icy mountain water, flinty sea salt, and vanilla-soaked walnuts. What two years ago was a wine so Chablisienne in structure--so strained with acidity--that it was difficult to drink, has now climaxed into something other-worldly that proves there is much more to chardonnay than what Burgundy can offer. I put it in a class with 90 Salon. Milan's champagne is less baroque, though. It typifies greatness from a vintage that could have been missed with all the 90s, 88s, and R.D.s on the market, but one that has earned its card. A wine can do no better than to bring such admiration and respect to its peers.

3 Comments:

Anonymous drew hagen said...

Dude, we were just talking about this! It's amazing what you kill off. Wow.

Drew

2:40 PM  
Anonymous Metal said...

useful information blog,very good content.

2:04 AM  
Blogger Nilay Gandhi said...

Was this blog just validated by Terminator?

3:15 PM  

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